📍 Shirakawago gassho village

Nestled in the heart of Gifu, Shirakawago tells a captivating tale of resilience shaped by its rugged landscapes and heavy snowfall. This village is like a hidden gem encircled by mountains, with a staggering 96% forest cover. Snow, around 2 to 3 meters deep from December to March, has not just defined the village but also forged a unique way of life. the villagers found their richness in the changing seasons, celebrating cherry blossoms, savoring harvest festivals, and living in harmony with nature's rhythms.

Delving into its history reveals a treasure trove of ancient artifacts dating back to 7000 B.C. to 2300 B.C. The village's name gained prominence around 1176, marking a turning point in its historical narrative. But what truly stands out are the iconic gassho style houses — distinguished by their steeply sloped thatched roofs resembling hands in prayer. These architectural marvels, evolving from the 1800s, are a testament to the villagers' resourcefulness in dealing with heavy snow. Awarded UNESCO World Heritage status in 1995, Shirakawago's journey towards preservation stemmed from the villagers' joint efforts, uniting to protect their cherished homes from the threat of decline and development. This story not only showcases architectural beauty but also speaks volumes about a tight-knit community safeguarding its heritage amid the breathtaking natural backdrop of the region.

We woke up at the observatory parking lot around 7am, startled by the buzz of a flying drone right behind our van. It was swiftly followed by a local guard's shout, "Flying drones are prohibited!" After the commotion, things settled, and we managed to grab another hour of sleep. Soon, the area grew bustling with people and cars, capturing the stunning view that we hadn't realised was such famous for its beauty as we arrived the previous day at night.

After a simple breakfast and tidying up our van, we strolled down the 500 meters path to the village below. It was 9am, and the village was serene, almost all to ourselves. just a few people wandered quietely, capturing the beauty of the landscape, the traditional houses, the rice fields. it was just so peaceful.

The quietness was suddenly interrupted by the arrival of so many overseas tourists buses, and the peaceful atmosphere changed quickly. Shirakawago felt more like a busy urban area rather than the serene countryside we expected. Though different, it was not entirely unpleasant.

We could have left since the essence of a van trip is freedom. However, our dilemma laid in our plan to drive to the next day's destination, a two-hour journey, after dinner that evening. Driving during the afternoon rush would have been a mistake due to heavy traffic. Being a Sunday with fantastic weather, the roads were crowded throughout the day, so we decided to wait until nightfall before hitting the road as planned.

Despite the crowded streets and some inconsiderate visitors, we managed to find a lovely family-owned ramen spot at the village's end. Surprisingly, it was really quiet and calm, and the price was really reasonable for such delicious local food. We carried on strolling, capturing the beauty of the surroundings, and eventually returned to the van in the early afternoon to take a rest after spending hours exploring. We also wanted to wait for the streets to clear up.

At 4PM, tranquility returned, with only a few cars left in the parking lot. We decided it was time to head back to the village for food and our usual evening soak in the onsen. It was a way to end the day as peacefully as it began.

However, it was quiet because every shop, café, and restaurant closed their doors by 4:30PM! I made a mistake in planning this trip 3 month behind, as I hadn't considered the shops' early closing times for the season, assuming they'd follow the summer hours! But we took it in good spirits, walking around until nightfall, feeling like characters in a deserted movie scene, with no one around and complete silence.

We made our way to ShirakawaGo onsen, knowing it closed at 9pm. Even though the day didn’t go as planned, we embraced the unexpected and ended it with calmness and quietness, just like it had started.

📍 Shirakawago no Yu

At Shirakawago no Yu, we found a cozy haven tucked in the World Heritage site. Each season brought its own charm, painting the landscape differently; from snow-kissed mountains in spring to vibrant autumn leaves. The soothing hot springs, filled with natural goodness, made our skin feel incredibly soft and renewed. Surrounded by the calming aura of wooden interiors and stone fixtures, this serene spot felt like a peaceful escape. Open from 7am to 9pm, with a fee of ¥800 for adults and ¥400 for kids, this day trip onsen invites everyone to cherish a slice of tranquility amidst the beauty of the village.

Photo credit: Shirakawago no Yu

As usual, we wrapped up the day dining at a cozy family restaurant, settled our daughter comfortably in her pajamas, and set off for our next stop the next morning: Gero Onsen, a two-hour drive away.

Driving through the countryside at night has always been a serene experience, far from the buzz of highways. The tranquil countryside unveils the beauty of nature under the night sky, with scarcely a car in sight. Our daughter, lulled by the peaceful ride, usually dozes off in minutes, leaving us free to chat about our day's adventures and the ones yet to come.

It's these uncomplicated moments — where the night whispers its tranquility and we share our thoughts — that we treasure the most.