We woke up to the serene beauty of a misty mountain, in a parking lot that led to a charming little lake just a short 5-minute walk away. The night had brought rain, leaving the air refreshingly crisp, and at 1400 meters altitude, we could feel the cool breeze.

We woke up to the serene beauty of a the mountain

As we packed up our nighttime camp, we noticed patches of snow scattered on the ground here and there. Our next adventure awaited as we set off on a scenic 20-minute drive to the Snow Monkey Park.

📍 snow monkey park

The tale of the Jigokudani Wild Monkey Park dates back to 1964 when it was established as a sanctuary for observing the social interactions of Japanese Macaques, affectionately known as snow monkeys.

Legend has it that locals spotted these clever creatures seeking warmth in the hot springs of a nearby ryokan, sparking the idea for the park. Nestled in the Valley of Yokoyu River within the Joshinetsu-Kogen National Park, the park's name, "Jigokudani," meaning "Hell Valley," hints at the steep cliffs and steamy geothermal springs that define the area.

Home to over 200 wild Japanese macaques, the park offers visitors a peek into the monkeys' natural habitat. These clever primates freely roam the mountains surrounding the valley, dropping by the park during the day for a relaxing dip in the hot springs and a bite to eat.

While the park staff ensures there's enough food to entice their visits, the monkeys maintain their independence, spending much of their time beyond the park's borders.

Accessing the park is a delightful 30-minute stroll through a cedar forest from Kanbayashi, adding to the charm of the experience.

Throughout the year, visitors can witness the monkeys' captivating behaviors, from playful antics in the spring to leisurely days by the river in summer and vibrant displays amidst the autumn foliage.

While the hot springs are a highlight, the true magic lies in being among these majestic creatures in their natural environment, offering a unique and unforgettable encounter with nature.

Our time at the Jigokudani Wild Monkey Park was truly treasured. Unlike traditional zoos, where animals are confined, here the monkeys roam freely, displaying their natural behaviors in a serene setting.

It was heartening to see the monkeys living happily and harmoniously in their native habitat. Equally heartwarming was the behavior of fellow visitors, who conducted themselves with calmness and respect, ensuring minimal disruption to the monkeys' lives.

Witnessing the arrival of newborn babies added an extra layer of joy to our experience, making it truly unforgettable and absolutely delightful.

address: 6845 Hirao, Yamanochi, Shimotakai District, Nagano 381-0401

Hours: Apr-Oct 8.30am-5pm - Nov-Mar 9am-4pm
fees: adults: ¥800 - kids: ¥400
There are no closed days. Open all year round.

📍 shibu onsen

We took a short 10-minute drive to reach Yumeguri parking lot at Shibu Onsen (¥500 for the day, closed at 6pm). While our road trip is primarily about exploring Gunma Prefecture, we couldn't resist the allure of this picturesque onsen village, even though it technically falls within Nagano Prefecture.

Shibu Onsen, nestled in the heart of Nagano Prefecture's scenic landscapes, offers a delightful retreat for those seeking a taste of Japan's rich bathing culture.

With its nine inviting bathhouses and accommodations to suit every budget, this charming village beckons visitors to immerse themselves in its healing waters and timeless ambiance.

Steeped in history dating back over 1,300 years, Shibu Onsen exudes old-world charm with its cobblestone lanes and traditional wooden ryokan.

Strolling through the streets adorned in yukata robes and geta sandals, one can't help but feel transported to a bygone era.

The town's nine public baths, each with its own unique charm and purported health benefits, offer guests the opportunity to embark on a journey of relaxation and rejuvenation.

For those embarking on the full bathhouse tour, collecting stamps from each establishment adds an element of fun and luck to the experience.

While overnight guests have exclusive access to most bathhouses, day-trippers can still enjoy a soak in the town's largest bath, Oyu, known for its therapeutic waters.

And amidst the tranquil streets, adorned with lanterns and historic buildings, the occasional sighting of snow monkeys adds a touch of whimsy to this enchanting destination.

Beyond the baths, Shibu Onsen invites visitors to explore its rich tapestry of offerings, from sampling local sake at Tamamura brewery to venturing into the neighboring Snow Monkey Park or Shiga Kogen Ski Resort.

Whether you're seeking relaxation, cultural immersion, or outdoor adventure, Shibu Onsen promises an unforgettable experience steeped in tradition and natural beauty.

📍 Onsen No.9 O-yu

As day-trippers, your ticket to relaxation in Shibu Onsen is the O-yu, the ninth and only accessible public bath. To get access, head to the visitor center first. Here, you'll pay a fee of ¥500 per person and gain access to the onsen between 10am-5pm (1pm-5pm Monday, wednesday and friday).

you'll receive your tickets and a handy English map of the village. The center also provides addresses of local shops and hotels where you can obtain the master key to unlock the onsen. Keep in mind, once the door is closed, re-entry isn't possible, so plan accordingly.

Inside the O-yu, there are no showers, a simple rinse with a bucket from the bathwater does the trick. If you're looking for extra relaxation, there's a small sauna to unwind in. The water in the bath is piping hot, but you can adjust the temperature by turning the cold water tap. Soak next to it for a cooler (or less boiling!) experience!

Overall, it's a simple yet amazing journey back in time that we highly recommend for a rejuvenating experience.

📍 a stroll in town

● After our soak in the onsen, we ventured into town for the rest of the afternoon. The streets were deserted, almost as if they were reserved just for us.

We leisurely wandered, embracing heartfelt encounters and relishing every moment of the serene quietness and tranquility.

● While exploring, we stumbled upon this charming little temple perched atop a bunch of stone stairs.

And let me tell you, we met the sweetest obasan ever! We chatted with her for about 15 minutes, and she kept going on about how hot it was for a spring day while she carefully tended to the prayer stones with water.

Then, out of nowhere, she kindly offered us a can of black coffee to make sure we stayed refreshed. She was an absolute gem!

● Shibu Onsen is a treasure trove of beauty waiting to be discovered. From its quaint cobblestone streets lined with traditional wooden ryokan to its serene temples perched atop stone stairs, every corner exudes charm and tranquility.

Whether you're strolling through the deserted streets or chatting with the locals, every moment in Shibu Onsen is a glimpse into the timeless beauty of Japan.

For our last adventure of the trip, we embarked on a three-hour drive towards Ikaho Onsen, a town brimming with the promise of new and amazing discoveries.

Upon arrival, we parked at the most convenient parking spot nestled in nature, right at the top of the village, which is just a short 5-minute walk away from all the bustling activity in the village below.